Alpine draw sling length reddit Jan 29, 2022 · Curious what width runners people prefer for alpine draws? I looked at 10mm at rei the other day and that seemed a little thick. But also think, if the biner is oreinted a certain way, it could actually open the gate and unclip. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Carry a sling while working a sport route. if the longest pitch is 40m bring 10. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. Nov 1, 2024 · Quickdraws have a fixed length sling, but most come in either 12cm or 18cm lengths, which you get to choose. Sport climbers, too, might find this ideal if the rope goes over sharp angle changes or around aretes. I don't like the feel. I don't like how it bunches up as an alpine draw. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. I just like longer to reduce rope drag. There are literally thousands of combinations of strand diameters, fibers, fiber treatments, cores/sheath, etc. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Late to the party but my own two pennies. 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. With the rope in the system, the sling will not see forces in excess of 10kN or so (depends on the impact force rating of the rope), and even that much force is only in extreme circumstances (large high factor fall). Also I often carry an extra 120cm sling or maybe a 180cm. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema 16 votes, 34 comments. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. That’s a very versatile length that you can use for anything. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. While the shorter length is perhaps more common, the longer length is certainly more versatile. On the other hand, just using a sling of a different length of sling, or going from triple to double of viceversa would even be a simpler solution. An alpine draw seems way more versatile, but girth… I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Jan 14, 2020 · The alpine draw offers both a shorter 12” lenth and a longer length of up to 2’ when fully extended. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Locking draw one a bomber piece or ring if there is a lager run out. An alpine draw is constructed using a 60cm sling and two carabiners and can be quickly extended with only one hand by unclipping one or two strands of the sling. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). On here sits all the extra stuff. Trango Phase Alpine ($27) Best uses: Alpine, trad climbing Weight: 80 g Length: 60 cm (sling length) What we like: More durable and versatile than other alpine draws on the market. Obviously, this could load the biner in a way it’s not supposed to. 5m for this). For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. a quick draw two quick draws an extended alpine draw a girthed alpine draw two girthed alpine draws a girthed single length sling two girthed single length slings a girthed double length sling a girthed double length sling with a knot. Hey folks. This is my preferred method. eg. Safety note: Having a rubber band or something similar to prevent the bottom carabiner on a sport climbing quickdraw from rotating is fine. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. However, they can also be solid gate carabiners. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Aug 1, 2023 · Reddit Pinterest You will also need a 60 cm or shoulder-length sling. I almost only use dyneema sewn runners. I'm curious to hear your thoughts on girth hitching a sling to a cam vs using an alpine draw. Mar 3, 2023 · Alpine draws are essential for most longer routes in the mountains where you need to extend your placements further to avoid excessive rope drag. Jul 11, 2024 · Best Premade Alpine Draw 5. Clip the carabiners into the sling Since an alpine draw is designed to help minimize Personally, I find the feature to be useless. Obviously that changes depending on route length. I choose my draw rack just as I would choose my pro rack. An alpine draw is a tripled single-length (60 cm) sling with a carabiner on either end. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Re-racking them is an extra step that can take a second or two, and is also a pain in the ass for the follower. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. 1. The whole unit weighs 80 grams, or 2. Posted by u/Red_Raven - No votes and 23 comments Alpine draws are pretty awesome for this since you can fully extend, double, or triple them up; or take them apart and girth or basket hitch off natural protection like trees, chockstones, chickenheads, etc. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Dec 4, 2014 · On big multi-pitch days, I carry 14 draws - 6 BD Oz quickdraws, and 8 alpine draws on my harness. Mar 9, 2023 · What length sling is best for alpines? A 60cm or single or shoulder-length sewn sling, is best for alpines. com Aug 11, 2018 · a "doubled up" sling will fail at the same exact load as an extended sling. 90 degrees between "tripod legs" absolute maximum. Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. I'd go for a few 15cm and complete with 10cm ones. They are also light for alpine stuff. Carabiners are not included with Alpine Runners. I have 10ft of extra accessory cord. When I'm climbing on gear, my sling length varies from super short to 48" slings, and all the 24/48" slings are "alpine draws", to allow for easy 1-handed extension . 8mm (70m) The rule of thumb is "test it before you use it". Carry a few single length slings over a shoulder with one carabiner attached. I wouldn’t worry about the sling strength, but every time I have a weird loop like that on the extended draw, the loop gets hung up on the wire gate. Concerning alpine draws, I don't see why this wouldn't work. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. Right Rear: Alpine draws, nut tool, Rocky Talky. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. I never believed the hype of the petzl spirit until I got a couple. Alpine draws are generally bulkier than quick draws, and assuming you have them doubled up, can take time to extend. As it happens, I have DMM Dragons which have a built in extendable sling. Mar 9, 2023 · Alpine draws consist of two non-locking carabiners, also known as snap gate carabiners, and a 60cm or “shoulder length” sling. Since these are your first set of draws, go with the 18s. Abrasion and UV resistant alpine runners ideal for use as extendable quick draw and anchor slings. 419 votes, 37 comments. And yes we are scared of falling. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I never cared for the BD dyneema. When tied with a double fisherman's it is approximately the size of a double length… Apr 28, 2020 · Quick draws are lighter and less bulky and often the extension need for a piece of gear is closer to a quick draw's length rather than an alpine draw's length. For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Figure Eight used for rigging any number of rappel systems and tensioning guide lines. I don't do any ice climbing, so I can't relate to that. Guidelines like "Replace your slings every 3 years" are not very helpful. Extending an alpine draw is almost as easy as creating it. He was self belaying with each plunge of the axe on snow that looked like 60 degrees maybe. Other than that, just make sure the dogbone/sling is straight. Many times I find myself placing two pieces right next to each other while leading for whatever reason (good… Personally, I like the DMM Dragons, the little bit of extension can often save using a quickdraw/alpine draw, especially on half ropes. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. The document has moved here. Clip one carabiner to the protection that needs to be extended 2. Apr 29, 2022 · The Edelrid Mission II Extendable Quickdraw is an alpine/trad draw that comprises a 60 cm Dyneema Sling and two solid-gate ultralight Mission II carabiners: a straight gate for clipping protection and a bent gate for the rope side. Mar 13, 2024 · A Rabbit uses the same amount of material as a single-length sling, but instead of being sewn into a closed loop, each end has its own small loop to clip a carabiner. When racking the draws, make sure the biners are opposite&opposed to make this happen in one fluid motion. . When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. Moved Permanently. The cam (like on a C4) should have a nylon sling that you clip one end of the QuickDraw. The CE tags on the webbing say 0639, which date them to 1999, source. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Exactly. 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot chest harness runner, 1 15ft untied runner, belay device, 1 rap ring, 1 PAS, and 1 set of texas kickers with 1 purcell extendable anchor. I have 15cm because multiple time I found myself wanting to extand a piece but an alpine draw was too long and the short one where too short, I suppose it depends where you climb. If the route is windier and I know I am going to want to extend more pieces I will generally being more alpine draws and slings. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. Extend: In the event you want to extend the alpine draw, simply unclip one of the carabiners from all the strands except one and pull the carabiner to effectively dissolve the loop, converting the strands back to a full-length sling. dbmyum upixe jghzg ojdwn vandr zqsve addu qdbba wrecd rztxez resk ipr cimlta xigqv tzci